I should have posted this ages ago. Somehow it slipped my mind although I've had everything typed in the memo of my blackberry. Oh well, never too late. These are my ramblings on travelling in mesmerizing India.
4th february 2010
Cochin really took me by surprise. When we arrived everything seems
calm and organised. Am I really in India? I guess the Southern part of
India is often overlooked, especially by Malaysians who tend to
stereotype this country as poor, noisy and chaotic.
The honking of cars is obvious, but apart from that everything is
pretty civilised. We're staying at an area that is charming and has a
very relaxed atmosphere..it feels like another part of Asia with small
restaurants along the streets and various home stays that are quite
reasonably priced. We came across many white tourists, mostly couples.
I guess there's a certain romanticism about this place or most of
India for that matter. After all, kamasutra did originate from here.
6the february 2010 - 6.22am
I'm up early. We are leaving Cochin today and our next destination is Munnar.
Yesterday was quite a productive day..well, shopping wise. We started
the day with Indian breakfast and I must say the food we had so far
have been excellent.
It's always better to pick busier restaurants as you know the food is more freshly prepared and always be aware of your
drinking water. Never drink the water in jugs that they leave on
tables in restaurants, it's always best to buy mineral water
instead..and don't drink anything with ice!
Next destination - the seaside. One of the main attraction are the
chinese fishing nets. These are impressive nets erected usually quite
close to the shore and are left to trap the fishes. They make lovely
photographs too!
After lunching fish mollie and parottha (roti canai without the
oilyness!) we made our way to the jetty to catch a ferry to Cherai
beach. The short ferry ride was interesting, women and men sit
separately. I couldn't stop eyeing the colourful sarees adorned by the
beautiful ladies.
The bus ride to the beach was unexpectedly long - close to an hour!
When we arrived we realised the beach is not the best decision as it
was pretty dead and not very impressive. However we spotted a small
hut where an Indian lady is busy preparing batter for her aloo and
chilli bhajis. Of course we ended up sitting there facing the beach
while savouring the freshly fried chilli bhajis dipped in chilli
sauce!
The tuk2 ride back to the jetty was quite scary, the driver was
speeding and honking all the way but thanfully we arrived back in
Kochi safe and sound and in one piece.
Walking around at the market stalls proves dangerous for the
pocket..the unique accessories, interesting paintings, fabulous
decoration for homes, eye-catching textiles, all make me want to
charter a ship full of goodies back to KL.
We did end up buying a couple of interesting cushion covers, silky
pashminas, colourful accessories and miniature paintings for ourselves
and as gifts for others.
The bus ride to Munnar is not too bad. Buses without aircond are
probably the best way to travel around India as you can leave the
windows open allowing sufficient air to breath and you'll get to see
the excellent view while absorbing the sights and smells along the
way. We could sniff strong curry fragrance at one point when passing
by a curry powder factory.
Munnar is at the highlands so the nearer you get to the town the more
winding the road becomes. The mesmerising view from the bus window and
cool air outside makes me feel calm but eager to discover another part
of Kerala. Tall trees, tea, coffee and cardamon plantation are all
just part of what this little town has to offer.
A taxi ride (playing it safe at the highlands) about 27km away from
the bus station took us to our cosy guest house surrounded by tall
trees as if we're really staying in a forest. Dewdrops is quite a
romantic getaway. As I'm travelling with a girl friend it can be a
quiet and relaxing break. We took a walk around the private property
leading us uphill to various plants and trees. The cool air makes the
walk pleasant and we passed by a few houses with friendly people
greeting us along the way. One of their dog even walked us back all
the way to our guest house!
The people are sweet and courteous, always eager to know where we're
from and our names.
The long walk and chilly air could also be reasons why we went to bed by 9pm!
After breakfast we walked outside the property to where the tribal
villages and plantations are. Once again smiling faces greeted us and
we were invited to a house that had chillies and tapioca plants. We
sat with them munching on raw tapioca and taking photos until it was
time to go.
We checked out of Dewdrops by noon to explore the busier part of
Munnar. As we didn't have prior bookings we checked into a small
husband and wife run home stay a few minutes walk away from Munnar
town.
The town is buzzing with the locals doing their sunday shopping. There
are many shops selling spices, flavoured teas and coffees, fresh and
dried fruits, even home made chocolates. Walking amongst the hustle
and bustle we reached their local marketplace selling fresh produce of
vegetables and fruits.
At a small alley there were stalls selling beef
and mutton. The vibe is great, we walked on to another area and popped
into a cute shop selling cotton bed linens and lunghis. Of course we
couldn't leave without purchasing a few, it's just too tempting not
to.
A while later feeling a little peckish we walked towards stalls
selling hot tea, coffee and fried foods of all sorts. Another stall
was busy making fresh roti and appam. The roti canai here is crispy,
fluffy and not oily at all - just perfect.
8th February 2010 - 8.35am
I'm sipping hot chai after a wonderful breakfast of masala dosa with
dhal and fresh coconut gravy.
We're getting ready for a 5 hour bus ride back to Kochi and another 2
hours to get to Alleppey.
9th February 2010 - 10.12pm
Alleppey dubbed Venice of India is so far the busiest town we've been
to since arriving in Kerala. We could see children coming back from
school by boats. The houseboats are the most famous tourist attraction
here although we didn't see any in the waters when we arrived. Even
the small offices hiring these boats didn't seem too busy. We found
out from the nice man at our guesthouse that the houseboats leave in
the morning so we won't see any in the afternoon. Tempted and curious,
we booked one with 2 bedrooms for 2 days. It wasn't available until
the day after which is fine as we'd be able to wander around..and
possibly do more shopping.
The guest house is really good value for money. Our room and bath is
spacious. There are a few sitting areas just outside the room and a
pretty garden at the back with pigeon house and a swing. The room
comes with breakfast too! Of course we opt for the tasty Keralan
breakfast - toast and jam? No, thank you.
There are many tailors and shops selling umbrellas we noticed. There's
also probably a wider selection of things to buy and possibly cheaper
than in Kochi.
The highlight of our day however has to be the ayurvedic massage. I
opted for a 2 hour massage which includes head, face and shoulders,
full body and thakadara.
I was told to sit on a stool while my head is being massaged with
coconut oil. Then my face and shoulders were massaged with the same
oil.
I then had ti lie down on a large wooden table that seemed a little
daunting at first. My whole body is soaked in medicinal oil from head
to toe. The whole process is extremely calming and relaxing. The
massesuse used long strokes and kept pouring more oil onto my body
throughout the massage.
The thakadara is a process of pouring medicinal concoction onto the
forehead from a hanging pot for about half an hour. The cool liquid
flows onto my forehead and over my head. The experience was utterly
blissful.
10th February 2010 - 1.50pm
We are on our very own houseboat! The view from this traditional
punting houseboat is breathtaking. Everything looks unreal; the tall
coconut trees, green paddy fields, locals doing their laundry by the
riverbank..it is extremely serene and romantic.
Our very own cook prepared rice and dishes of okra, potatoes and fried
fish. The captain stopped the boat and we ate, while admiring the view
that is truly enchanting.
The boat moored. I jumped into the calm water and swam a few laps
while stopping to look at the birds flying above. Feeling refreshed I
climbed back onto the boat and our journey continues.
Once again the boat moored at a village. We walked around and took
photos. We got back on the boat as the sun starts to set and just sat,
chat and ate until it was time to sleep in our cosy little room with a
pretty mosquito net.
It's morning. I couldn't see the sunrise. The sky is cloudy, it will
not be a good day for photos. Everything looks grey but it's still
relaxing. I started to yawn and took a nap after lunch and a few
glasses of toddy.
I woke up in time for tea and some freshly fried banana in mildly
spiced batter. The houseboat is great but two nights is definitely
enough. After a while I felt somewhat imprisoned like a captured
princess as there was nowhere else to go but be on the boat! My
thoughts could be exaggerated, but the experience on the houseboat is
not one to be missed.
We ended our Kerala adventure with a rickshaw ride back to Kochi. We
met a very nice rickshaw driver who took us through villages and
amazing beaches. The 2 hour journey didn't seem very long at all. We
stayed in Kochi for some more last minute shopping before heading back
to K.L with our spirits high from a lovely trip and our luggage full
of indian treasures.